UPDATED January 2019: Looking for some hiking in Luang Prabang? Just across the Mekong River from town is a walk known as the Chomphet Hike. Though only a 2-minute boat ride from the prosperous UNESCO World Heritage town, Chomphet District feels worlds away. This side of the Mekong is significantly less developed, making it an easy getaway from Luang Prabang’s tourist crowds. Five temples, including historic Wat Long Khoune, dot the river’s edge, connected by a trail.
As of 2019, the walk has become significantly easier now that the once rugged, unmarked trail has been paved from Wat Chomphet to the fourth temple Wat Had Siaw. The development means the hike has lost some of its wild charm, however, it still reveals crumbling temples shrouded by dense forest, beautiful views of Luang Prabang, old relics, a sacred cave, a zany abbott and a few more unexpected surprises.
Hiking in Luang Prabang – The Chomphet Hike
Summary: An unguided hike in Luang Prabang, taking you on a mix of paved path and trail through forest, past sacred temples and quiet scenes of monastic life. The temples, starting with the closest to Luang Prabang and going upriver: Wat Chomphet, Wat Long Khoune, Wat Tam Sackkalin, Wat Had Siaw, Wat Khok Pab.
Distance: As little as 1 km, up to 10 km, depending on route…or how lost you get.
Time: The hike outlined below (arriving at Ban Xieng Mane Village to Wat Khok Pab) takes 2-3 hours. For a challenging hike, complete route as a circuit.
What to bring:
- decent walking shoes/sandals
- plenty of water
- mosquito repellant, hat
- Hobo Maps: Chomphet Hiking Map, printed or saved to device
- money for temple entrance fees
Trail Conditions & Tips
- Paved path and dirt road/single track that can be overgrown with brush or covered with leaves.
- Exposure: Road exposed; trails are shaded.
- Gradient: moderate
- Trails are unmarked. Use the Hobo Map and try to make note of key landmarks like the wats along the way.
- Avoid the midday heat.
- If you aren’t an experienced hiker, stick to the path along the Mekong River.
View of Luang Prabang from Chomphet.
Start
Take the passenger ferry from Luang Prabang’s main boat landing Tha Heua Luang (behind the Royal Palace Museum, on the Mekong road) or hire a boat from any of the Mekong River boat landings. It should be no more than 10,000 kip per person. The ferry will take you to Ban Xieng Mane. The village is rough around the edges compared to Luang Prabang but it has seen some development in the last few years with a paved road and drainage added. After walking up from the boat landing, turn right and walk through the village until the steps of Wat Chomphet.
Walking along the trail is free but if you leave the path to see a wat, there is an entrance fee. These are active temples where monks study and live, so please be respectful. Men should wear shirts; women should dress modestly and cover shoulders. Except for the cave temple, remove shoes before entering a structure.
1. Wat Chomphet
A hundred or so steep steps lead up to the simple but pretty Wat Chomphet. Here is one of the best views of Luang Prabang from across the river. The fee to enter the grounds is 10,000 kip.
Perched on the hilltop, Wat Chompet is estimated to date back to the 18th century. Though the temple has certainly seen better days, a small plaque notes restoration work. Stop to notice the gold-stenciled images on the rich, red ceiling.
The walk between Wat Chomphet and the next wat is one of the most pleasant of the entire trail.
2. Wat Long Khoune
Dating to the 18th Century, the front porch was added in 1937 and restoration work was done in 1994.
A former royal retreat, soon-to-be Kings would spend three days here before the coronation ceremony at Wat Xieng Thong located directly across the Mekong at the tip of the peninsula, with the grand set of stairs leading up from the river. Note the Chinese guardians painted beside the entrance and the gold stencilling on the ceiling.
There are usually boats available that can take you back to town. Buy tickets here if you wish to see Wat Tham Sackkalin cave.
3. Wat Tam Sackkalin
In Laos, caves are considered sacred places and over the centuries they fill with Buddha statues. The joy in visiting ancient Sackkalin cave monastery is that it’s usually local kids who keep the key and they will lead you inside. Sure, a 5-year old is leading the way but it still feels a little Indiana-Jones-esque. Give them a small tip at the end.
4. Wat Had Siaw
After about a kilometer of walking you should reach Wat Had Siaw. It’s known for its walking meditation building (look for the long narrow building).
Walk through the grounds to the back behind the walking meditation building and look for two ways. The small dirt road to the left goes around a hill and is accessible by foot, mountain bike or motorbike. The narrower path on the right goes through the forest. Guided by stone markers, this trail goes up to the top of the hill to a set of Buddha statues, before descending down to join the small road.
At this junction, there’s a path that leads uphill to Wat Nong Sakeo, a temple built on a pond. Unfortunately, as of January 2019, there was a no-entry sign barring the way.
The dirt road continues to the back of Wat Khok Pab.
5. Wat Khok Pab
The lush gardens at Wat Khok Pab are beautifully done and painstakingly maintained. Rumour is that this wat is led by a rogue abbot who has formed a sect considered a bit strange for mainstream Luang Prabang Buddhism. The grounds look more like a wellness resort than a traditional Lao temple, and they continually add to the buildings and gardens. The many pathways are pleasant to wander for a few minutes.
How to return to Luang Prabang
To avoid retracing your steps: If you have a local sim, before setting off from town, get the telephone number of a boat driver who would be willing to pick you up at Wat Khok Pab when you call him in two hours time. Alternatively, get a boat from Luang Prabang to taxi you to Wat Khok Pab and do the hike in reverse, walking in the downriver direction and at the end taking the public ferry. It’s also easy to find a boat or someone in the village with a boat at Wat Long Khoune or Wat Chomphet.
At Wat Khok Pab, you can also try to flag down a passing boat. It’s a gamble.
It is possible to continue on from Wat Khok Pab as a strenuous counterclockwise circuit, taking the overgrown trail up the hill to a golden seated Buddha with seven-headed Naga. I have not gone this way recently. The trail should pass Wat Nong Sakeo and eventually connect to a trail that goes back to the river or north to a main road. Refer to the Hobo Map.
Want to explore Chomphet by motorbike or bicycle? I published a scenic do-it-yourself itinerary on Travelfish.
